Santa Comes to Dubai!

When I arrived in Dubai, after a 14 hour flight with little sleep, I marveled at the Christmas decorations in the airport. I have a fuzzy memory of thinking how amusing it was to see that. If Dubai is about shopping, than of course a secular version of Christmas would fit right in.

Today the Oasis Center's central area was completely filled in with Christmas trees, 'snow'men, reindeer, and even wolves and enormous stuffed squirrels. The Mall Manager greeted my photo op with a laugh and told me that Santa is coming to Oasis Center tomorrow, with elves, too. He appeared to be from India, and he told me that in Dubai, Christmas decorations are allowed, but no advertisements or billboards displaying Christmas 'propaganda.' He is also forbidden to have Christmas Carols in the center. He was required to remove the 'santa hats' from models in an advertisement.

In keeping with the Christmas and snow theme, the other day I made it the Mall of Emirates, which has the Ski Slope hotel attached to it. This photo is from the window in the mall. Some people living here have told me that they learned to ski here before going on a ski vacation, so I suppose it has a deeper purpose than simply novelty. There weren't tons of people there while I peeped in, but it was the day after a long, holiday weekend. Noura says it's often busy, and that she's been a few times. You can even rent Parkas and ski pants ... everything but gloves.

Turkish Coffee with a Hint of Cardamom

This is what fills my French Press these mornings; it's quite tasty. They don't seem to have half & half, as such. It's a bit of a challenge to find cream for my coffee, and what I've found comes in plastic containers that resemble ones that contain yogurt, sort of.

The alarm wakes me at 5:20 am. Coffee has been prepared the night before. In this apartment there is an electric kettle, which is total genius. A glass of hot lemon water goes done while the hot water steeps some flavor out of those coarse little granules, and I scurry to prepare myself. Teeth brushed, tongue scraped, and at least a little color on my face. Then, it's a mad dash to Skype my honey, check email, and peruse Facebook.

Raju picks me up at around 6:15 am, and I get to Oasis Center by 6:40 ish. The employees at the Center lay the mats out, and I often rearrange them just so. The ipod plugs directly into the wall, and their sound system speakers are hidden in the ceiling, I guess. We don't have lots of yoga props, but many of the students have brought some blocks and blankets.

Class goes essentially from 7 am to 4:30 pm, with a few breaks. I get 'home' by around 5:15 pm, or so, which is a pretty full day.

The training is almost complete, in that we conclude on Saturday. What's still difficult to wrap my mind around is that we still have about 40 hours together! The students have traveled quite a distance on their yoga path, and I'm feeling quite good about the foundation we have established together. They have teaching practice on Friday, in which half of them are teaching a full class while the other half practices; after the break, the roles switch for a different sequence.

They have all grown as yoga practitioners and are budding teachers, but what has also grown has been a community of tremendous support, respect and love. Yoga truly is for everyBODY, and may be the force that can indeed unite the world.

That Which is Ever New

In Yoga Philosophy, "OM" is said to be comprised of 4 parts: A - U - M (pronounced the Ahhh, the OOOh, and the Maaa) followed by the silence which 'carries the vibration.' These 4 parts of OM are said to correspond to such things as past, present, future and timeless-ness; Creation, Sustenance, Dissolution and that which is eternal ... also described as Beginnings, Middles and Ends and the formless reality which had no beginning and so can have no end. Manorama refers to this as the 'OM Cycle', which is continuously shaping and reshaping itself in each arising mOMent.

Today officially marks the end of the 2nd week of the Teacher Training Program I'm currently teaching in Dubai, U.A.E. In "OM Speak," we have just ended the middle part of the training, and have just begun the end phase. The end phase will have a beginning, a middle and an end. This, of course, as you in the States are in the 'middle' of your weekend, but here, the weekend is officially over, and tomorrow a new work week begins. We are still in the beginning of December, but it's toward the end of the year. As I write this now (9 hours ahead of the East Coast), it's the end of the day, and yet it's the beginning of the middle of the day in Philadelphia. Continuously colliding cycles create our experience of reality.

Another word for OM, according to the Yoga Sutra of Patanjali, is Pranava. Some have said this word means, "sustains life and runs on prana, or the breath." Others have said the word means 'a humming sound.' Manorama has defined it as "That which is ever new."

To tune into Pranava, is to recognize that, even though things seem the same, this moment has never happened before. It is a trick of the mind to think, "been there, done that." Tapping into the power of OM is to remain vibrantly connected to the continuous unfolding of your life. By being attentive to how you conclude whatever is 'ending,' you have the power to create new beginnings. In fact, there is a new beginning tucked into every single breath.

As we slide through the middle of the holiday season and toward the end of 2011, rather than wishing it was over, see how attentive you can become to the entire cycle. As we approach the Winter Solstice, which is a great metaphor for the 'dissolution' phase of the cycle, ask yourself if there is anything you are finally ready to let go of in order to create the space for a new beginning. Can you release a grudge? Forgive someone a perceived wrong, even if that someone is yourself? Relinquish anger or resentment or blame? Forsake jealousy or pride or the indignation of having been hurt by life? Buried within the frozen hardness of winter are the seeds which will sprout springtime. Manage your endings skillfully, to create the space and the conditions for the next wave of OM.

Is it Tuesday?

Teacher Training is going great. I am definitely here to work. Waking at 5 am each day has been great, but after 'holding space' for the group, keeping everything on track, adapting as appropriate, and working to keep all of the students' energy 'up,' I am exhausted at the end of the day! I think tonight I will end with a steam at the spa ... it really is the loveliest place to hold a training. The on-site staff couldn't be more accommodating, and the showers and towels ... not to mention treatments are totally sublime.

The spa is also associated with Balance Cafe, which is an ayurvedic cafe just down the hall. I've only been there so far for breakfast, which has been ok. Yesterday, however, I looked at their afternoon menu, which looks amazing. We get a 15% discount there, so I think I'll be having dinner there tonight.

Extolling the Virtues of a DAY OFF

Saturday is like Sunday here. Tomorrow is the Islamic New Year, so some offices will be closed. The city seemed a little quiet-ish, I guess, but Noura and I headed toward what I think is called "Old Dubai." We walked through the textile markets, and took a water taxi across to visit the Spice Souk and the Gold Souk, marveling at how the water actually looks gold in front of the one bank. Each of the merchants tried to entice us into their stores by wrapping a scarf around my head, or placing a spice in my hand and asking, "what do you think this is?" It's always good to travel with a local, because once Noura started speaking Arabic with them, they knew they couldn't rip us off. I only picked up a few things ... some 'thank you gifts' for the teachers who agreed to cover my classes in my absence. Haven't yet found THE PERFECT Dubai t-shirt for my dad, the man who never asks for anything but requested this. I almost bought a kid's book called "Humpy Grumpy" about camel, along with a camel hand puppet for my nephew, but Noura convinced me their asking price was double the value. Alas.

Noura and I got on like childhood friends, and she even felt like a tourist in her own city visiting places she rarely goes to. The weather was absolutely perfect. Stellar day off.

T.A.I.T.

Weekends here are Friday and Saturday. Rather than saying "T.G.I.F" I'm told they say, "T.A.I.T." (Thank Allah it's Thursday!). As the group trickled in on Friday, slowly, and without a tremendous amount of vim and vigor, Hitesh said, "It's been a long time since any of us has had to 'work' on a Friday." In an effort to be sensitive to their plight, we continued past the typical afternoon break so that we could cover the necessary information, and we could end a little early. Each one of them taught half of a Lunging Surya Namaskara to 3 of the students, while the rest of the class observed. They applauded each other and felt very proud of what they had learned in our short time together. Ok, maybe not that short ... (6) 9 1/2 hour days in a row, but integrating this even while going home to care for children and families is no small thing. For many of them, it's like learning a foreign language (Yoga/Sanskrit) in a foreign language (English). They're working so earnestly it's inspiring. I'd love to audio-record them so when I'm back home in the states I can listen to them teaching.

After we ended on Friday, I got an ayurvedic treatment called "Shirodhara." It's my absolute favorite indulgence. The woman gave me a light, relaxing oil massage, and then proceeded to stream warm sesame oil back and forth over my forehead (3rd eye) for around 45 minutes. The warm oil drips off of the head and through the hair, and she would massage my head periodically. I've heard it called the "mind eraser" because your thoughts come in and out but can't be followed, and your awareness drifts to the far outer reaches of the cosmos ... or you fall asleep. I woke myself up a few times with a little snore. It is A-MAZ-ING. After, she wrapped my hair up in a towel and directed me into a very hot steam room, where I sat for about 10 minutes, so that the oil could be absorbed into my skin. After a shower, I was toast.

Had hoped to go out and experience some of this legendary Dubai nightlife, but could barely muster a quiet, local dinner with Noura before sleepwalking home. I slept 14 hours. In a row. Without waking even once. A cab driver in New York City once told me that a good night's sleep is a gift from God. I felt quite devout in the morning!

Thanksgiving in Dubai

Gratitude can be celebrated in every moment!

The lovely fellow who works at Starbucks in the Oasis Center asked me if I was missing my holiday. I answered that I can feel grateful any time and any where, and that I don't eat turkey anyway!

Today was day 5 of the program. The students are doing great. It's thrilling to watch their faces during their 'a-ha' mOMents, when they make associations/connections and really GET IT.

During the breaks, many of the students share meals together, and get to know each other in a more personal way. Its so affirming to me that yoga can benefit everyone. I've never taught yoga to a large percentage of Muslim students, so it's really enlightening to learn how they respond to my understanding of the path and practice of yoga. Yoga itself is not a religion, but inspires great reverence and humility and leads one toward an experience of the infinite. How each student relates to that is perhaps unique, and the words we use to describe it may be different. But until each one of experiences that state of being, all of the beliefs we have about it are just that: beliefs. Until we know that by which all is known, everything we think we know is just a thought.

When I spoke with Paul (my husband) last night, he asked what I did after work. When he learned that I pretty much work all day, then walked to the grocery store to buy food and finally made some dinner (which was just heating up pre-packaged Indian food ... does it count as Thanksgiving if the 'Indian' component is from India rather than Native America?) ... he said, 'wow, it's a pretty austere life.' I'm definitely here to work, and 9 1/2 hour days, now 6 days in a row take a lot of energy, focus, and clarity. I don't have much left at the end of the day. But this work is so satisfying to me that I don't feel like I'm missing anything at all. As Manorama's teacher Sri Brahmananda Saraswati has said, "Yoga is the state in which you are missing nothing." I feel pretty complete. Ok, maybe a little tired!

Less Yoga, More Dubai

If you're not a total yoga geek, and you don't find explorations of the intricacies of Teacher Training to be that interesting, and you couldn't care less about pranayama techniques taught by a man who said he was a doctor 20 years ago but looks as if he's 35, you might be reading this blog thinking, "But what is Dubai like????"

So here's my perception so far.

There is one long road that seems to connect everything. Alongside of the road are big showrooms, glass and mirror covered, that look almost like car dealerships do when they are not near other businesses. The ocean is next to this road, or at least near this road, but is not visible because of villas and high rises. There are lots of round-abouts, and the green lights start flashing before they turn yellow. It's definitely not a walk-able city, although there is a metro I'd love to test out.

The architecture is quite something, with really polished and futuristic-looking high-rises. Being from the States, tall building aren't so 'amazing' to me, but here in the Middle East, they are definitely an accomplishment. The tallest tower in the world, formerly the Burg Dubai, now called Burg Khalifa is definitely a tall drink of water. It costs something like $100 to visit near the top, however, and I don't see myself doing that. Apparently a new Tom Cruise movie was just filmed here (a Mission Impossible?) in which he is dangling near the top of the tower.

Shopping malls are big attractions. In the summer, it gets soooo hot, that people can't tolerate being outside. Malls arose to meet this challenge. The Dubai Mall, for example, has a grocery store (at least one), an aquarium, an ice skating rink, a hospital (or at least a health clinic), along with shops and restaurants and cafes. I've been driven past the hotel that has a ski slope in it, and the exterior looks like a very large hamster habit trail.

The people are very nice. I don't sense any attitude at all. I haven't experienced any of the opulence that Dubai seems to be famous for, and Noura debunked the myth that there exists a street paved in gold. In fact, to me it seems pretty laid back. I really appreciate the multi-culturism here. Women in varying states of head scarfs and veils walk next to women in short skirts by women in saris. Some men are wearing traditional garb with headdresses and scarfs, others are in shorts. I don't sense any animosity, and there seems to be at least some level of ease. People smile easily, and are willing to give directions, for example, or volunteer to take a photo.

When Paul and I were in India, he found this really lovely 'clove' toothpaste. So he set me up with a travel size 'crest,' thinking I could find something local and interesting. After visiting maybe 5 pharmacies and grocery stores, I finally found something that wasn't made in the US or Germany, the UK or France. I picked up a tube of paste made with 'miswak' which they dub the 'famous toothbrush tree used for centuries.' It smells like licorice. I'm kinda psyched.

That's all I got for now. On Saturday (my first day off!), Noura is going to take me to the old Souks, which are markets that you reach by hailing a small ferry. Next week, we're planning to do a 'desert safari,' which includes a 4x4 ride in the desert, a half-an-hour camel ride to the destination, and then 'sand boards' to surf the dunes. Now THAT sounds pretty bad ass.

That's all I got for now. Stay tuned. Stay in touch. Drop me a line, or a facebook post.

Benner OUT (tee hee)

The Greatest Gift You Can Give is the Gift of Health

Teacher Training is in full gear.

We are beginning each day at 7 am with a vinyasa yoga practice, so they can experience the poses we work on later in the day in an embodied and flowing way . It seems like every other day the energy shifts. The first day, there was excitement and energy, the second day they were droopy. The third day, bright again; today not so enthusiastic. Of course, I'm 'in it' with them, so I'm working hard to be certain that I'm not projecting my energy level on to them. For my yoga teacher training friends, we've moved into an exploration of the Virasana family, and so today's practice involved Parsvottanasana, Parvrtta Trikonasana, Natarajasana. We don't have a great selection of props: a few zabatons (meditation cushions) and plenty of bath towels, so we've had to improvise the support for virasana and revolved triangle.

Today they practiced teaching Lunging Surya Namaskara(s), too reluctant to give up their scripts. There was plenty of laughter in the room as they split off into 4 groups, and they seemed quite energized by the challenge. Today they also collectively realized HOW HARD it is to teach yoga! Anything done well looks easy. Now they know how high the bar has been set. I have full faith that each one of them can realize this goal, as long as they are willing to work hard.

After work I took a "pranayama (yoga breathing techniques) and meditation" class. The teacher told me he was a Doctor in the South of India, and now is living in Dubai teaching yoga. He said the greatest gift you can give anyone is the gift of health and vitality. I love looking at the 'job' of teaching yoga as that: the opportunity to give health and vitality. I was the only student for this one-hour class, and he seemed really happy that I was there. He said he's been to my website, and I think he may want to come to Wake Up Yoga to give Ayurvedic consultations and workshops on pranayama and meditation. He ended up leading me through about 75 minutes of pranayama, offered in a very different method than I'd ever experienced before, and then a guided savasana (relaxation). He talked me through relaxing different parts of my body, and before we even left the right leg, I was 'gone, daddy, gone.' I drifted to that really sweet place that's not connected to form and enjoyed that journey. Since I am so fired up to be doing what I'm doing here, I'm not really in touch with how much energy it consumes commandeering this training. It was quite refreshing to let go for a short while. Happily, I sneaked back into my body just as he was telling me to wiggle my fingers and toes, and I don't think I snored at all! He wanted to lead me into meditation at this point, but Raju was downstairs waiting for me. I promised the teacher ... whose name is Panda, that I would practice with him again, and I yawned the entire ride home.

I found a camera cable! PHOTOS1

Here's the water fountain 'dance,' or show. This is butterflies suspended from the ceiling at the Dubai Mall. Next are pictures of my apartment. Oh, and a self-portrait with some of the Dubai skyscrapers behind me.

Ultimate Professional Satisfaction

This is a group after my own heart. We were scheduled to have a 2 hour break in the morning after practice, and an hour break in the afternoon. Before the training began, Noura and I decided to shorten the morning break to 1.5 hours. The students said, "Can we shorten the morning break to 1 hour, and do we really need a whole hour off in the afternoon?" Ok, to be fair, many of them are stealing time away from their children and husbands/responsibilities, and so ending early is on their mind. But they are completely and totally engaged in the topic at hand. It's been 3 days. We've spent the better part of 30 hours together, and I couldn't have imagined it going better. I think that, because we have less cumulative time together, they need to crack and pop sooner. Three students have already had realizations or experiences profound enough that they shed some tears. We're already one day ahead of the syllabus, which truthfully was just a guess anyway, since I've never taught my training program in a condensed, intense format. I'm seeing precious little of Dubai, but feel so totally content and satisfied with the professional aspect, it's almost irrelevant where I am.

After 'work' today, one of the students drove me to Dubai Mall. It's the largest mall in the world, next to the largest tower in the world. He drove me around a few areas to see the 'downtown area,' and the skyline view from different vantage points. There is a huge fountain around the mall, almost a lake, which offers a show set to music every half hour after sunset. The first show I didn't get to see, but was choreographed to some throbbing Arabian music. The one I witnessed was set to some operatic aria ... the fountain streams would rise up, shimmy to the side, slowly trickle down. It was truly like a ballet. I took some photos, but I'm not sure they communicate so much.

In my next post I'll start to write about interesting things about this country. In the meantime, it is way past my bed time. Over!

Less Lag ...

So this morning I slept until 3:30 am! I tried to go back to sleep, but it was futile. Seized the opportunity to give feedback to hOMework submitted by my lovely TTs in Philadelphia.

Noura, the woman who arranged the training here in Dubai, decided that she is unable to participate in the training. She's super, uber busy with setting up her business here; this woman is a powerhouse! So she hired a driver for me, named Raju. This morning I came downstairs early to wait for him. The sun was just beginning to peek out from under its sheets, and I saw a man standing a bit in the distance. I had met Raju the night before, but didn't expect to know the man off in the distance, so I didn't look too closely. After about 10 minutes my phone rang, with Raju hearing the bell as he called to tell me he was here. I've never had a driver before (and it's not the limo I requested!).

TT is really going well. I can't believe it's only been 2 days. We're like old comrades by now. It's a great group, and they're willing to really dive in, confront resistance and absorb all they can. They were being so specific and precise about language choices for their Lunging Surya Namaskara scripts, that I need to re-evaluate some word choices that I thought were sound. Nothing like sharing my 'tried and true' method with new students only to learn that they interpreted my instructions totally differently. It's good to see the things I take for granted, and see what I can polish.

Hoped to take a pranayama class at 5 pm, but my nose is still too stuffy to breathe. Hopefully by Wednesday's class I'll be able to inhale and exhale through both nostrils! I did sit in the steam room for a good half hour or so, which was sublime.

I haven't really had a day off yet, so haven't been able to get out and explore. Hoping to do some of that later this week. In the meantime, I'm just trying to stay awake until at least 8:30 pm tonight so that I can sleep through the night. Wish me luck. I am so tired of being consumed by tiredness! Need to break the cycle ...

Sunset on the beach

TT Day One

Balance Well Being Spa is where the Teacher Training is being held.

http://www.balance-wellness-centre.com/spa/about.html It's on the top floor of a mall called the Oasis Center. Malls are big deals here, almost like tourist attractions. This venue is just amazing. It smells divine. Our room is named "air," and it's next to Earth and Water. The women's locker room has a steam room and a sauna, with crushed ice falling from the sky gathering in a bowl so you can rub your skin to close the pores after steaming them open. There is a water wall edging along the hallway, and tucked inside each locker is a bathrobe and towel. It's sublime! They have 21 treatment rooms and offer ayurvedic massages, consultations ... even shirodhara! One of the treatments is called "Chakra Balance" involving essential oils, massage, crystals and a facial, plus shirodhara. Haven't booked it yet ... but they're offering a 15% discount ...

Our first day of Teacher Training was a spectacular success! The students seem to be integrating the information and making connections right away. Perhaps the condensed format requires their synapses to fire more quickly. There are 13 students, with just one man. Funny, this is the exact number/configuration of the training that's going on right now at Wake Up Yoga! This is quite an International group, with representatives from the Netherlands, India, Pakistan, France, England, Ireland, USA, Tanzania, South Africa, Brazil, and Jordan. If I'm forgetting anyone I'll include them later. We started today with a very basic vinyasa yoga class, which they all seemed to enjoy. We learned 4 poses, 3 Teaching Methodologies, and identified the contents of the Opening Vinyasa. Whew! Of course, they are feeling overwhelmed, but also quite inspired. It's really a wonderful, receptive group.

Noura took me to see the beach today at sunset, which was quite spectacular. A handstand shifted my energy for at least an hour, and I got to dip my toes in the water. We ate rice, tahini, grilled eggplant, a green bean hummous-like spread and a salad at an Egyptian restaurant, and then she drove me home. I was practically losing consciousness in the car. Waking up for the day at 12:30 am makes for difficult small talk!

Hopefully this is the end of my jet lag and tomorrow I'll be back in fine form. Sweet Dreams!

Jet Lag ... always worse the second day

I'm writing this as I wait for the water heater to kick in (it needs to be turned on before showering, as does the heater for the dishwasher, and even the stove), while drinking hot lemon water waiting on my French Press to brew up some strong coffee. I went to bed at 9:30, and slept restlessly until 12:30 am. I've pretty much been awake since then, resting in bed. Today is the first official day of Teacher Training, and we meet from 7 am - 5 pm, with a few breaks in between. I'm still struggling with this cold, and may take some Advil Cold & Sinus to help me manage. That stuff leaves me feeling strung out and wired, but at least awake. We'll see.

Dinner last night was great. Many of the students gathered, along with Sabrina, the woman who manages the venue where the training will take place, along with the boyfriend's of Noura and Sabrina. Two men in a group of women often look a little scared, but they handled it well.

We ate at a restaurant that overlooked a marina. Lovely food, nice company, and a great view. I forgot my camera, which I'm hoping is the last time I do that.

This group of students is really wonderful, and from all around the world. Nicole is from South Africa, Ynske is from the Netherlands (but came to Dubai after living in Houston, TX), Kristy lives in Abu Dhabi and comes from Northern California (originally from Central Jersey!), Claire is from France, Zhara is from Pakistan and Luciana is from Brazil. I just love it! Yoga clearly is for EVERY BODY.

First Day in a New Land

Sleeping in today meant that my eyes opened at around 7:30 local time. Not bad for getting over jet lag. Dubai is 9 hours ahead of the East Coast, USA.

Practicing Yin Yoga really does help re-set an internal clock. Sarah Powers suggested this in the first yin class I ever took. Maybe it's simply the power of suggestion, but my energy feels pretty even. I'm not bursting at the seams, or anything, but my eyes are open and I seem to be functioning pretty well.

Noura collected me at around 2 pm for a walk around the Greens so I could acquaint myself with the neighborhood and pick up some groceries. I just love grocery stores in foreign countries. Some of the fruits looked AMAZING ... I can't wait to try them. She convinced me to pick up a tiny French Press coffee maker and a pound of freshly ground coffee. I was grateful for the instant coffee that was here in the apartment today, but tomorrow begins Yoga Teacher Training at 7 am, so something more robust will come in handy.

Tonight many of the students enrolled in the program are meeting at a casual Lebanese restaurant to get acquainted. I'm looking forward to expanding out a bit to see more of this city. I haven't caught a glimpse of the ocean yet, but there is a vast expanse of sand and dunes right across from my apartment.

It's just amazing that this little pocket of liberal attitudes exists in the Middle East. Women are wearing shorts and short skirts, plenty of skin revealed. I did laugh that the cab we took from the airport last night was among the women drivers ... they wore pink head scarves, and the cabs were pink!

I hope to find the necessary cable to hook my camera up to the computer so I can post photographs. Until then, I'll just have to use my words.

Traveling to Dubai

Whew! I made it. Flight from Philadelphia to Atlanta was a breeze, except it was too full for my roller-bag carry on. Had to check that all the way through to Dubai. I wasn't thrilled about this, but it meant that my journey through the Atlanta airport was less cumbersome. And since I volunteered to check my extra bag (somewhat begrudgingly but trying to honor Asteya and not be stingy) one of the Delta Representatives handed me a small stack of Delta drink tickets. They may come in handy on my return flight.

‎Noura El-Imam had asked me to pick up a bottle of Amaretto, but the duty-free shop in Atlanta didn't carry it. Because I didn't want to be empty-handed for my host, I picked up a bottle of Cointreau and a bottle of Patron's Coffee Liquor, figuring she could have whichever she preferred, and I would sip on the other one over the course of the next 3 weeks.

While sitting at an airport cafe in Atlanta waiting for my connecting flight and sipping on a Blue Moon draft, the woman at the table next to me easily struck up a conversation. Within 20 minutes I knew the names of her children, children-in-law, and grandchildren. We discussed how her long-time boyfriend begrudges her leaving him to spend time with her family, and she told me that I looked like I belong in Paris (which is just about the best compliment anyone can give me). We hugged when we left and I thought, "I just love the South! People are so friendly!"

I had a middle seat for the direct flight from Atlanta to Dubai, seated between 2 lovely gentlemen who had both been to Dubai before. The one to my right works as an Army contractor, and has to stealthily travel throughout the Middle East as a mechanic for surveillance equipment (yes, he has a full security clearance). The guy to my left was born in Dubai ... or maybe it was the larger United Arab Emirates, and now lives in a small town in Kansas. The contrast between the two places seems surreal. We all shared some laughs, which makes a 14 hour flight less awkward.

Thanks to Stephanie M. Rodigas' stellar advice, I had called Delta early in the am to request a vegetarian meal, which they promptly served as soon as the fasten seatbelts sign was off. I fell asleep immediately. Sadly, that was just a short nap. Fourteen hours (well, we made good time, so it was just 13 1/2) is no joke. Seriously. There's nothing funny about it. The entertainment was good, and flying at night helps. Listening to ambient music was at least soothing, but sheeeeesh! (said in loving memory of Dear Old Jay Pratt).

After we finally landed, I learned that there is a duty-free shop as you exit the airport. This is the only place (I think) that you can buy alcohol for home consumption ... or at least it's a whole lot cheaper. So I picked up the requested bottle of Amaretto, thinking that I would probably sip on some of the Cointreau and Coffee Liquor, and leave behind whatever I didn't finish. However, it turns out that Noura's boyfriend Dominic LOVES Cointreau, and she almost asked me to pick that up, too. Of all the choices I could have made, seriously. Kizmet. We are off to a very good start!